Go Pig or Go Home

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Sweet potato pig fries — what have I done? - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Sweet potato pig fries — what have I done?

The Kahlua Pig Fries at Banana Hut are not an appetizer unless you dine with a small regiment ($8.99). The platter of french fries smothered in pulled slow-roasted pork with gravy, melted cheese and green onions is the sort of dish that could only come from a culture that once worshipped volcanoes. You will need forks and napkins. Many napkins. It's a rich, messy treat, and the meat is so tender that there is real danger of wolfing it down and being unable to eat the fish tacos or the loco moco you ordered.

Also lovely are the sweet potato fries, which allow you the illusion of eating something healthy. (It's a super food!) But what if that wonderful, obscene lava spill of pork covered a plate of sweet potato fries instead? Had our waiter not been so friendly, I might have resisted the urge to experiment. It was only an extra $2 to make the switch. Would the sweetness be too much? Had I gone too far? Anytime you want something extra from a Hawaiian menu, the answer is yes. And yet the sweet potato makes this sharing plate a legitimate meal since the fries are not only a vehicle for toppings. Even the cold leftovers are drag-your-fingers-along-the-corners-of-the-container delicious.

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