No Sleep Till Brooklyn


Bridge-and-tunnel goodness. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Bridge-and-tunnel goodness.

Stuffed pizza tends to let you down while doubling your carbs. This is partly because the bubbly exposed cheese doesn't happen and the sauce stays too wet. The Brooklyn at Paul's Live from New York (604 F St. Eureka) does not fall into this trap, mainly because it is — shhhh! — not really a slice of pizza.

It's profoundly garlicky sautéed spinach with mozzarella and ricotta cheese between two layers of pizza crust, the top of which is dusted with Romano cheese. Sharing is a good idea, as are mints, unless you want to keep Twilight fans at bay. (So sad — it's over and they have nowhere to go.)

But what about sauce? Got your sauce right here. On the side in a little cup, thus solving the mushy stuffed pizza dilemma and satisfying control freaks. I used to bring my Nanna, a Sicilian New Yorker who relocated here, a slice at her assisted living home. I suspect she loved the smell of it filling up the whole dining room and making people jealous as much as she loved eating it. Bring some back to the office and see what I mean.

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