Roll Big


Enter the Golden Dragon roll. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Enter the Golden Dragon roll.

You love sushi, right? And yet, now and then when everybody wants to go for rolls, you slump a little. What is that? It's hunger. You are starving, and as much as you'd love a delicate sprinkling of tobiko over a pristine cube of tuna, you just don't have the bank account to fill your growling belly like you could with, say, a sub.

Down, belly. The Golden Dragon roll at Bayfront is a genuinely substantial sushi roll ($10.50). It shows up on a long plate like an eight-car rollercoaster of tempura shrimp, salmon, thin slices of lemon, spicy mayonnaise sauce and hey, that sprinkling of tobiko. The lemon turns out to be the star, balancing the richness of the salmon and the crispy shrimp.

The Go-go Green roll sticks to your ribs. - JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • The Go-go Green roll sticks to your ribs.

If you were secretly dreaming of fish and chips, then the Go-go Green is the way to go ($13.75). It's got tempura salmon inside and cream cheese inside and avocado, miso mayonnaise and tobiko outside. The salmon is a nice little chunk with the skin still on it.

With both of these rolls, you have a choice: You can struggle to bite a piece in half and maybe not taste everything at once, or you can unhinge your jaw and stuff the whole thing in your mouth like a boa constrictor. Really, it's going to depend on the company. If you find yourself munching away with a full cheek, be grateful, for you dine with true friends.

Hey, Humboldt. Nobody wants to see your lunch on Instagram except me. Email [email protected] and tell me what's good around here.

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