Il Forno in Fortuna

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The people of Fortuna have evidently mastered manifestation, perhaps connecting with their namesake goddess. One can only assume this from the imminent opening of a larger branch of the Asia’s Best market there and a second location for the Garberville-based Il Forno Bakery (1006 Main St., Fortuna). What candles are you lighting, Fortunans?
Il Forno's lemon-poppyseed doughnut. - PHOTO BY JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Il Forno's lemon-poppyseed doughnut.

The chai doughnut is rumored to be a stellar spoke in the rotation but stopping in on a day when the lemon and poppyseed was on the counter felt like luck ($2.50). The tangy white icing is thick over the raised yeast doughnut, which is fluffy and moist, with a light stretch when you pull it apart. Lemon is an overlooked flavor for doughnuts and the frosting on this one is downright juicy.

A messy queen, the almond croissant. - PHOTO BY JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • A messy queen, the almond croissant.

The fox-brown, laminated croissants are a draw, particularly the weighty almond variety ($6.95). Slivers, rather than slices, crunch on top, ground almond filling inside, and powdered sugar and crumbs everywhere. Wear the flakes with pride. Those of us who know the moist, nearly custardy richness sandwiched in these somewhat smashed looking relics of French excess will recognize the spray of crumbs and sugar on your shirt and know you.

Peanut butter and jelly cake. - PHOTO BY JENNIFER FUMIKO CAHILL
  • Photo by Jennifer Fumiko Cahill
  • Peanut butter and jelly cake.

The peanut butter and jelly cake ($8.95) is not to be ignored, either. Fudgy chocolate layers are perhaps richer than necessary in a cake mortared together with salty-sweet peanutty buttercream, ganache and strawberry jam, but surely there are other aspects of your life where moderation is better practiced. (Work, perhaps?) Fortuna, after all, favors the bold.

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