Thanks to months rich in rainfall, everywhere I look is green: our yard, pastures, parks. My plate is also green, partly because I eat a large green salad every day ("Take Time for Salad," March 23, 2023), partly because I cannot resist the bunches of glorious leafy greens available at the farmers market.

Neat bundles of heavenly smelling fresh herbs are another item I gladly purchase. They are a treat for the eyes, the nose and the palate. They usually don't last long in their delightful freshness and most dishes require relatively small quantities of herbs, so it is good to have in our repertoire recipes that call for larger amounts. Because — allow me a little detour here — we don't want to waste food, around Earth Day, or any day of the year.

One recipe that fits the bill nicely is a Persian dish called kuku sabzi, a kind of herb frittata traditionally prepared for Nowruz, the New Year celebrated on the spring equinox. (Sabzi is the Farsi words for herbs.)

I have read many versions of this recipe, the main elements of which are fresh herbs and eggs. A common refrain is the ability to tweak it based on what the cook has available. I have also made different versions using what was in my crisper (more dill one day, more parsley another, lovage from my garden, etc.). A different combination means a different flavor, so this is a dish that can be made again and again without becoming boring. Some recipes include greens and I like to do that, particularly spinach.

A good amount of chopping is required to prepare herbs and greens. Rather than a chore, I approach that as a relaxing, soothing activity.

The intense green of this dish nicely points at the spring season and the flavor is truly a treat for lovers of fresh herbs.

Persian Herb Frittata

Flatleaf parsley, dill and cilantro are widely used, including leaves and tender stems. (I set aside thicker stems and the dark part of the leeks to make broth.) I add some sprigs of lovage and the leaves of a handful of thyme sprigs.

Serves 4-8 as a main or appetizer.

Ingredients:

4 ounces cleaned leek, white and light green portion

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

8 ounces fresh, cleaned spinach

2 cups finely chopped fresh herbs (see recipe note above)

5 large eggs from pastured poultry

¾ teaspoon fine sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

Cut the leek in half lengthwise and slice into 1/8-inch half-moons. Rinse well in a colander, then place in a bowl and fill it with cold water. With your hands, swirl the leek pieces to clean them well, then scoop them out of the water with a sieve or slotted spoon, and drain them in a colander.

Warm a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, then add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the leeks, stir well and cook for a couple of minutes. Cover the skillet and cook on low heat until the leeks are soft (12-15 minutes), stirring every now and then, making sure nothing burns. Transfer the leeks to a small bowl and clean the skillet.

Wash the spinach, drain and spin dry. Chop finely.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly, then whisk in the salt, pepper and turmeric. Add the cooked leeks, the chopped herbs and spinach and mix everything well. A silicone spatula works well for this step, which requires patience.

Warm up the skillet again over medium heat, pour int the remaining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and swirl to coat. Empty the bowl into the skillet and use the spatula to spread the mixture evenly across. Cover the skillet and cook the frittata on low heat for 5 minutes, then uncover and continue cooking for another 8 minutes, until set most of the way through.

Use a spatula to lift the frittata all around the edge, then shake the skillet to ensure the it does not stick. Flip the frittata onto a flat plate (or the back of a cookie sheet). Slide the frittata back into the skillet and cook the other side for 7-8 minutes.

Let the frittata cool slightly, then, with the help of a spatula, slide it onto a platter, cut and serve warm. It is also good at room temperature.

Simona Carini (she/her) also writes about her adventures in the kitchen on her blog pulcetta.com and shares photographs on Instagram @simonacarini. She particularly likes to create still lives with produce from the farmers market.