Many mourn the closure of Porter Street Barbecue in Arcata. The anger stage of our collective grief focused on the local attorney who has become the Voldemort of Humboldt County. Are we ready to celebrate the remaining Eureka branch of Porter Street (605 Broadway)?

Blind Justice can still smell the smoke funneling up from the outdoor carousel of meat. Barbecue is a cuisine of factions and schisms (the sauce vs. rub battle is particularly divisive). But the tri-tip sandwich on garlic bread is a uniter, not a divider ($10.78 with cheese). It is a meal I have not only enjoyed, but given to others in thanks, as salve for disappointments, by way of apology and as straight-up bribery. Go ahead and declare the inclusion of Provolone cheese blasphemous — the rest of us will let it melt into the top half of the bun while the juice from the beef drips into the garlic-buttery bottom half. A little cup of sweet pickles and homemade sauce on the side is just the vinegary tang to set off the meat and power you through what can be a daunting beast.

What's your go-to order? Email [email protected] and tell me what's good around here.