last day of summer went out to the jetty after work sun just starting to dip down golden warm, light breeze paddled out at the channel then headed north to bunkers one or two people were up there caught a nice one right off the bat was thinking, is that it? decided to try to paddle straight back out saw a dark shadow take off on one right in front of me made it out again unscathed but a little awed by the wild power paddled over one big beauty a majestic green peak it just came rolling in out of the blue depths another guy was there we both just stared he said he'd seen my last wave it felt good to be acknowledged we waited briefly then he caught one and I caught one after my leash got tangled on my foot somehow instinctively I navigated a bottom turn and rode the wall without falling gilded all the way in then belly boarded the sea foam to shore walked back to the car full of stoke and adrenaline hoping someone might have seen it all then laughing at my adolescent folly got back to the parked cars helped a woman load a motorcycle into her truck got into my warm dry clothes strapped on the board turned on giants radio and drove through the dunes heading home for dinner
Matt Durham
Comments