If you came to El Chipotle (850 Crescent Way, Arcata) in the mood for a torta, the prize specimen isn’t listed with the others served on bolillo rolls. Flip to the house specialties page of the menu to find the showstopper pambazo.
Chef and co-owner Oscar Anguiano’s Mexico City iteration is a traditional soft, white pambazo roll dipped in savory guajillo chile sauce before it’s pressed on the grill for a little crustiness, filled with a fistful of smoky, shredded chicken tinga and lettuce. The queso fresco is a nice balance to the tart tomatillo in the salsa verde.
However, if you are someone who always orders the chile relleno when it shows up on a menu, this is not the time to fight your nature. Sidebar on sides: The house-made beans are smoky, creamy, light on salt and have just a little firmness to the bite, and the rice is lovely and homey as well. Take time to appreciate their intermingling with the light but fragrant sauce poured over the star of the plate. A slice reveals the mild, roasted pasilla chile’s tender, emerald interior and creamy melted queso fresco. The thick, eggy batter, garnished with cilantro and more queso fresco, holds the sauce and clings to the pepper to the last bite. Don’t be sad it’s over; be happy you can come back for another.